Shoe with rolled throat line



OCt/lfi, 1951 J. HENKEL SHOE WITH ROLLED THROAT LINE Filed July 51, 1947 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 J. HENKEL SHOE WITH ROLLED THROAT LINE Oct. 16, 1951 z sheets-sneet 2 Filed July 51, 1947 1/050 HenAe/ Patented Oct. 16, 1951 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE John Henkel, Baltimore, Md., assignor to Dixon- Bartlett Company, a corporation of West Virginia Application July 31, 1947, Serial No. 765,181

3 Claims." (01. 36-45) The object of this invention is to construct a double lined pump with a throat section which will not only retain the shoe snugly on the foot, but which will fit comfortably, and not bind.

Many efforts have been made to constructa'.

padded orelastic throat section, but these have required the insertion of additional materials and at times additional layers of material. Other such efforts, have suggested the slitting or weak ening of the throat section, the slitting injuring,

the appearance and weakening the holding-on value of the throat section.

and yet afirm holding section over the instep of the foot is provided.

These and other objects and advantageswill be apparent from the following descriptions and the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, and in which:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the outer face of the forepart of la vamp upper assembly of the pump of this invention.

Figure 2 is an inverted plan view of the same.

Figure 3 is a sectionalview in perspective on line 3-3 ofFigure 1;

Figure 4 is a fragmentary inverted plan view of the vamp section with the middle lining attached.

Figure 5 is a similar view with the edge of the throat of the vamp section turned over, in fan formation.

Figure 6 is an inverted plan view of the inner lining.

Figure 7 is an enlarged cross sectional view on- I is initiallycut in extended or fiat position with" integral vamp and quarter sections with the edge. 2 at the throat to give an arcuate final form and with the throat line 3 creased to indicate its location. The edge, well outside the throat line is skived on the inside of the leather as shown at 4 to bring-the leather down to a thin wedge as shown at 5. This edge is then slit as at The intermediate or middle lining has quarter sections I extending down partly around the throat endsat 8 and a vamp section 9 terminag" ting considerably short of the throat line 3 as;

shown at H).

The extended edge 2 of the throat is then folded over the lining I and v9, in fan formation, as shown at H and cemented to the lining and this leaves a roll l2 at the throat consisting of two thicknesses of the leather which is itself particularly soft and pliable, and not being reinforced, it is slightly stretchable and rolls under pressure of the foot instep.

The inner lining has quarter sections 13 of leather stitched together at. l4 and stitched to the fabric inner lining l5 well below the throat section as shown at [6.

Apiping I] is'thereafter sewed by seam 22, around the edge of the shoe upper opening and slightly over the. extreme ends of the throat line roll l2 as shown at l8. This piping is then turned in around and under the edge of the opening, and stitched on through the middle lining and outer section as shown at l9. The inner lining I3 shown in Figure 6 is then placed on the outer section and middle lining l, 9 and stitched at 20 all around the shoe opening. The stitching 20 passes around the throat, then up the sides of the opening so close to the turn in the piping I1 as to be scarcely visible, after leavingthe throat. The throat 2| of the inner lining terminates considerably short of the throat line 3 of the'vamp section to leave the roll l2 free .of the rigidity of the linings. The edges 23 of quarter sections l3 are cut ofi at lines 24, see Figure 6, after the final line of stitching 20 attaches the inner lining to the upper I.

From this construction it will be'apparent that the rather rigid form of theshoe throat beginning with the stitching 20 at the edge of the inner lining at the throat 2| firmly retains the shoe upon the wearer while the relatively resilient roll I2 of the outside vamp section makes the first contact with the rising portion of the instep of the wearer and pads the foot against the more rigid portion of the shoe and considerably eases the impact of the shoe upon the foot while the more rigid portion securely holds the shoe in place.

Roll l2 forms a continuous marginal contour, uncut and unpadded and makes a very neat appearance with the rest of the shoe, being a plain inturned edge of both great strength and resilience, being unreinforced and also unweakened at the throat line and considerably beyond over that line. The bringing of the piping beyond the ends of the throat line reinforces that line where it joins the rest of the vamp section to considerably restrict any deformation of that line at its ends.

Many modifications of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

What is claimed as new and is desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. A shoe comprising an upper having integral vamp and quarter sections, the vamp section having an edged portion arranged to provide a resilient arcuate throat line, the edge of the vamp portion forming the throat line being slitted and turned under, the slits terminating well short of the throat line, a middle lining extending along each side of the upper quarter sections and having ends on each side extending under the inturned edge of the throat and terminating thereunder adjacent the ends of the throat line, the

edge of the vamp portion, between the ends of. the middle lining, being folded under directly upon itself to form a thin throat, the slitted edge fanning out, in fan formation, an inner lining for the upper cut to provide a throat substantially lower than and parallel to the throat line of said vamp section, said last named lining underlying the slitted edge of the vamp section and a seam spaced from the throat line passing through the vamp section, the middle lining and the slitted edge and uniting the vamp and inner lining below the throat line, the seam and linings limiting the extent of the individual resilience of the single fold of the vamp section, I

the vamp section thereby forming a firm, freely mobile, smooth arcuately continuous surfaced roll at the throat line.

2. A shoe comprising an upper having integral vamp and quarter sections, the vamp section having an edged portion arranged to provide a resilient throat line of continuous marginal contour; the edge of the vamp portion to form the throat line being skived and, turned under, the skiving terminating well short of thethroat line, a mid.- dle lining extending along each side of the upper quarter sections and having ends on each. side extending under theinturned edge of the throat and terminating thereunder adjacent the ends of throat line passing through the vampsection, the

middle lining and the skived edge and uniting the vamp and inner lining below the throat line, the seam and linings limiting the extent of the individual resilience of the single fold of the vamp section, the vamp section thereby forming a firm, freely mobile, arcuately continuous surfaced roll at the throat line.

3. A shoe comprising an upper having integral vamp and quarter sections, the vamp section having an edged portion arranged to provide a resilient throat line of continuous marginal contour, the edge of the vamp portion to form the throat line being skived and turned under along the throat line directly upon itself at the line of fold to form a thin throat, the skiving terminating well short of the throat line, an inner lining for the upper cut to provide a throat substantially lower than and parallel to the throat line of said vamp section, said lining underlying the skived' edge of the vamp section; a seam spaced from the throat-line passing through. the vamp section, the, skived edge and uniting the vamp and lining below the throat line, a piping extending along the edge of each quarter section of the upper and extending to and. over each end of the throat line to grip the portion of the upper forming the throat line, the. seam, piping and lining limiting-the extent of the individual resilienceof the single fold of the vamp section, the vamp section thereby, forming a firm, freely mobile, smooth, continuous marginal. surfaced roll, at the throatlinm- JOHN HENKEL.

REFERENCES, CITED.

The following references are of record in. the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS 

